How to print ABS: avoid warping and get strong parts

Short answer

Heated bed, even warmth around the print, moderate speed. It is less about nozzle temperature and more about keeping the part warm all the way through, so it doesn't warp.

How to print ABS: quick guide

ABS gives tough, heat-resistant parts — but it is trickier than PLA and PETG, because it warps readily. If you want to read up on the material itself, see What is ABS? This guide goes straight to how you get smooth, reliable prints: the right temperatures and a stable environment. All temperatures below come from our own data sheets.

Recommended settings

Starting values according to our data sheets. Of everything here, it is the heated bed and a stable environment that decide whether the print succeeds or not.

Nozzle temperature 230–260 °C — start around 245 °C

Bed temperature 90–110 °C — a high bed temperature is important against warping

Print speed 40–90 mm/s — moderate speed gives the best layer adhesion

Enclosure Recommended — keeps the heat even around the print

Layer cooling Low or off — too much cooling increases warping

Step by step

1. Create a stable, warm environment. ABS shrinks as it cools. Uneven cooling is exactly what makes corners lift from the bed. The easiest way around it: print in an enclosed printer or an enclosed space that keeps the heat even, and avoid draughty, cold rooms. At least 20 °C in the room does the trick. If it still warps, there are more tricks in the warping guide. Don't forget ventilation — ABS smells during printing.

2. Make the part stick. The foundation is a heated bed, 90–110 °C. If you want extra grip, especially on larger parts, reach for a glue stick or a brim around the model. A PEI plate or similar surface also helps. And consider raising the bed and nozzle temperature by 5–10 °C for the first layer only.

3. Keep the cooling down. This is where ABS differs a lot from PLA: the less layer cooling, the better. If the layers cool too quickly, the adhesion between them suffers and the risk of warping and cracks goes up. Turn the fan off, or run it at the lowest possible level.

Common problems and solutions

Corners lifting (warping) Uneven cooling, cold environment → enclose the printer, raise the bed temperature, use a brim

Layers cracking (delamination) Too much cooling or too low a temperature → turn the fan off, raise the nozzle temperature

Part comes loose from the bed Bed temperature too low or dirty bed → raise the bed temperature, clean the bed, glue stick

Cracks in large parts Draughts or temperature swings → protect against draughts, keep an even ambient temperature

Good to know

→ With an enclosure

An enclosed printer makes ABS much more reliable. The heat stays even, warping decreases and even large parts come out strong and dimensionally stable.

→ Without an enclosure

It is possible to print smaller ABS parts without an enclosure if the room is warm and draught-free. Use a brim, a high bed temperature and no layer cooling. Expect more warping on large surfaces.

Frequently asked questions about printing ABS

What temperature should I print ABS at?

230–260 °C on the nozzle, 90–110 °C on the bed, according to our data sheets. Run a 245 °C nozzle and as hot a bed as your printer can manage — the bed temperature is what protects against warping.

Why does my ABS warp?

It shrinks as it cools, and uneven cooling makes the corners lift. The solution: an even, warm environment. Enclosed printer, raised bed temperature, no draughts. A brim and glue stick help at the margin.

Do I need an enclosed printer for ABS?

Not an absolute requirement for smaller parts, but strongly recommended anyway. An enclosure keeps the heat even and reduces warping and cracks considerably. Make sure the ventilation is good.

Should I have layer cooling on for ABS?

No — keep it as low as possible, preferably off. ABS bonds best between layers without cooling. Too much fan increases the risk of both delamination and warping.

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Printing ABS: avoid warping and get strong parts