How to print ASA: weather-resistant parts without warping

Short answer

Treat ASA much like ABS. Heated bed, even warmth around the print and moderate speed, and you get tough parts that withstand both weather and UV.

How to print ASA: quick guide

ASA makes strong, weatherproof parts that can live outdoors, but like ABS it needs a stable, warm environment to keep the corners from lifting. If you want to read up on the material itself first, we cover it in What is ASA?. This guide shows you how to get reliable ASA prints, and every temperature comes from our own datasheets.

Recommended settings

Starting values for ASA according to our data sheets. A stable environment is at least as important as the temperatures.

Nozzle temperature 230–265 °C, start around 245 °C

Bed temperature 90–110 °C, a PEI plate or glue stick helps adhesion

Print speed 35–70 mm/s. A moderate speed gives the best layer adhesion

Enclosure Recommended. Keeps the heat even and reduces warping

Layer cooling Low or off. Too much cooling increases warping

Step by step

1. Create a stable, warm environment. ASA shrinks as it cools and its corners can lift, just like ABS. An enclosed printer or a space that keeps the heat even makes a big difference. Avoid draughty, cold rooms, and make sure there is good ventilation while printing. If the corners still lift, our guide to warping goes through more fixes.

2. Make the part stick. ASA wants a heated bed at 90–110 °C, just like ABS. Use a glue stick or a PEI plate for secure adhesion, especially on larger parts, and consider adding a brim around the model. Our ASA filament comes as a classic variant and as carbon fibre.

3. Keep cooling low. As with ABS, ASA wants little or no layer cooling. The layers then bond more strongly and the risk of warping and delamination drops. Lower the speed a little if you want extra-smooth surfaces.

Common problems and solutions

Corners lift (warping) Uneven cooling, cold room → enclose the printer, use a brim, avoid draughts

Layers cracking Too much cooling or too low a temperature → reduce the fan, raise the nozzle temperature

Part comes loose from the bed Too little adhesion → glue stick, PEI plate, brim

Stringing Temperature too high → lower the temperature in steps of 5 °C, fine-tune retraction

Good to know

→ With an enclosure

An enclosed printer makes ASA far more reliable, just as with ABS. The heat stays even, there is less warping, and the part keeps its UV resistance without weak seams between layers.

→ Without an enclosure

Smaller ASA parts can be printed without an enclosure if the room is warm and free of draughts. Use a brim, make sure bed adhesion is good and turn down layer cooling. Expect large, flat surfaces to lift at the corners more easily.

Frequently asked questions about printing ASA

What temperature should I print ASA at?

According to our data sheets, 230–265 °C on the nozzle and 90–110 °C on the bed. Start around a 245 °C nozzle and adjust from there.

Why are the corners of my ASA print lifting?

Like ABS, ASA shrinks as it cools, and uneven cooling makes the corners lift. An enclosed, warm, draught-free environment is the best solution, together with a brim and good bed adhesion.

Do I need an enclosed printer for ASA?

It is recommended, especially for larger parts. An enclosure keeps the heat even and gives much more reliable results. Make sure there is good ventilation as well.

Is ASA harder to print than PETG?

Yes, mainly because of warping. PETG does not need an enclosure, whereas ASA does best in a stable, warm environment. In return, ASA stands up to weather and UV in a way PETG does not.