How to print ASA: weather-resistant parts without warping

Short answer

Treat ASA much like ABS. Heated bed, even warmth around the print and moderate speed, and you get tough parts that withstand both weather and UV.

How to print ASA: quick guide

ASA gives strong, weather-resistant parts that can sit outdoors, but just like ABS it wants a stable, warm environment so it doesn't warp. If you would like to read up on the material itself first, we go through it in What is ASA?. This guide shows how to get reliable ASA prints, and all temperatures come from our own data sheets.

Recommended settings

Starting values for ASA according to our data sheets. A stable environment is at least as important as the temperatures.

Nozzle temperature 230–265 °C — start around 245 °C

Bed temperature 90–110 °C — a PEI plate or glue stick helps adhesion

Print speed 35–70 mm/s — moderate speed gives the best layer adhesion

Enclosure Recommended — keeps the heat even and reduces warping

Layer cooling Low or off — too much cooling increases warping

Step by step

1. Create a stable, warm environment. ASA shrinks as it cools and can warp like ABS. An enclosed printer or an enclosed space that keeps the heat even makes a big difference. Avoid draughty and cold rooms, and make sure you have good ventilation while printing. If the corners lift anyway, we go through more fixes in the warping guide.

2. Make the part stick. ASA wants a heated bed at 90–110 °C, just like ABS. For secure adhesion, especially on larger parts, use a glue stick or a PEI plate, and consider adding a brim around the model. A perfect first layer lays the foundation for a successful print. Our ASA filament is available as a classic variant and as carbon fibre.

3. Keep the cooling down. As with ABS, ASA wants little or no layer cooling. That makes the layers bond harder and reduces the risk of warping and delamination. Lower the speed slightly if you want extra fine surfaces.

Common problems and solutions

Corners lifting (warping) Uneven cooling, cold environment → enclose the printer, use a brim, avoid draughts

Layers cracking Too much cooling or too low a temperature → reduce the fan, raise the nozzle temperature

Part comes loose from the bed Too little adhesion → glue stick, PEI plate, brim

Stringing Temperature too high → lower the temperature in steps of 5 °C, fine-tune retraction

Good to know

→ With an enclosure

An enclosed printer makes ASA much more reliable, just as with ABS. The heat stays even, warping decreases and the part keeps its UV resistance without weak joins between the layers.

→ Without an enclosure

Smaller ASA parts can be printed without an enclosure if the room is warm and draught-free. Use a brim, good bed adhesion and lower the layer cooling. Expect more warping on large, flat surfaces.

Frequently asked questions about printing ASA

What temperature should I print ASA at?

According to our data sheets, 230–265 °C on the nozzle and 90–110 °C on the bed. Start around a 245 °C nozzle and adjust from there.

Why is my ASA warping?

Like ABS, ASA shrinks as it cools, and uneven cooling makes the corners lift. An enclosed, warm, draught-free environment is the best solution, together with a brim and good bed adhesion.

Do I need an enclosed printer for ASA?

It is recommended, especially for larger parts. An enclosure keeps the heat even and gives considerably more reliable results. Good ventilation is also preferable.

Is ASA harder to print than PETG?

Yes, mainly because of the warping. PETG does not need an enclosure, whereas ASA does best in a stable, warm environment. In return, ASA withstands weather and UV in a way that PETG does not.

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Printing ASA: weather-resistant parts without warping