Short answer
Clean the bed with dish soap, level it, and check that the first layer is pressed out into an even, smooth line. If that does not solve it, the temperature or speed needs adjusting.
Print not sticking: the short answer
A first layer that does not stick is the most common problem in 3D printing, and it almost always has one of three causes: the wrong distance between nozzle and bed, a dirty build plate or the wrong bed temperature. All three can be fixed in a few minutes, and this guide takes them in turn.
Rule of thumb: Clean the bed with dish soap, level it, and check that the first layer is pressed out into an even, smooth line. If that does not solve it, the temperature or speed needs adjusting.
Find the cause step by step
1. Clean the build plate. Grease from fingers is the single most common culprit. Wash the plate with warm water and dish soap, dry it with a clean cloth and then avoid touching the surface. Isopropanol works for quick cleaning between prints, but dish soap removes grease better. This is a general tip that applies to all materials.
2. Set the distance to the bed. The nozzle should sit close enough that the filament strand is lightly squashed against the plate, not so far away that it simply rests loosely on top. Level the bed and fine-tune with the Z offset: if the first layer looks like round, loose strands of spaghetti, the nozzle is too high; if it turns see-through thin and uneven, it is too low. Materials also behave differently: PLA wants to be pressed against the surface while PETG wants a little more air, something we go through in How to print PLA and How to print PETG respectively.
3. Check the bed temperature. The wrong bed temperature makes even a perfect first layer let go after a few minutes. According to our data sheets, 40–65 °C applies to PLA, 50–70 °C to PETG, and 90–110 °C to ABS and ASA. ABS is particularly sensitive: a bed that is too cool is the most common reason corners lift, which we look at more closely in the guide on warping.
4. Lower the first-layer speed. A first layer printed too fast does not have time to stick. Reduce the first-layer speed to roughly half of the normal speed in your slicer. Most slicers have a separate setting for the first layer.
Settings by material
The table summarises the bed temperatures from our data sheets and what each material wants beyond that.
When nothing else helps
If it still does not stick, there are two proven reinforcements. A glue stick on the plate gives extra grip for virtually all materials and is easy to wash off. A brim, meaning a wide edge around the model that the slicer adds, greatly increases the contact area and helps tall, narrow parts in particular. Both are general tricks that work regardless of material. If the filament is old and has been left out, moisture can also impair adhesion, which you can recognise by more symptoms in the guide on how to dry damp filament.
If you are a beginner and want to avoid the problem altogether, PLA filament is by far the most forgiving material to start with. It sticks easily to most build plates without either glue stick or a high bed temperature.
Frequently asked questions about bed adhesion
Why won't my PLA stick?
Almost always a dirty plate or the wrong Z distance. Wash the plate with dish soap, level it and make sure the first layer is pressed into an even line. PLA is the material that sticks most easily, so the basics are usually enough.
Do I need a glue stick?
Not for everyday prints in PLA or PETG on a clean plate. A glue stick is, however, a good aid for ABS, ASA and nylon, for large parts with a small contact area, and as a release agent when PETG sticks too hard.
Which build plate surface is best?
A textured PEI plate is a reliable all-rounder that most materials stick well to. Smooth PEI gives a glossier underside but demands more careful cleaning. Whatever the surface, cleaning matters more than the choice of material.
The print comes loose mid-print, why?
If the first layer looked good but the part comes loose later, it is usually due to draughts or a bed that is too cool, so the part shrinks and pries itself free. It is the same mechanism as warping and is covered in that guide.
Filament in 173+ shades, from 115 SEK
Varje färg provtryckt, vakuumpackad med silikagelpåse och skickad från Tibro inom 48 timmar.
